VINE LINES - FEBRUARY 2010
February judiciously dished out even-handed portions of the good with the bad, just to stop us from becoming complacent,
and also gave us a new word of the month to think about: “mulct” ...
But it started brilliantly, with a five course dinner designed by Michelin-star chef Alex Clevers and his Bocuse-finalist sous-chef, around our white wines at the Vivendum restaurant in Belgium . Two nights were sold out within 24 hours, so a third sitting was tagged on: three times the same five-course menu, three times the same five white wines, and three times perfection! (You can never have too much of a good thing.) Not even the most die-hard red wine drinkers called for a glass of red, and declared themselves completely converted. It was almost too easy. |
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We finish on a sober note ourselves, with that word ‘mulct': both a noun and a verb, meaning ‘to punish with a fine' as well as ‘to swindle ' or ‘fraudulent' – take your pick, they all apply. The Case of the False Pinot came to some sort of conclusion this month, when a handful of producers and dealers, including Limoux's respected Co-Operative Sieur d'Arques, were fined and/or given suspended sentences for selling twice as much pinot as is grown in the Languedoc, largely to E&J Gallo. Mulct all round. It was the French themselves who uncovered this fraud and followed it over 12 months to its conclusion; the consumer was happy enough with his glass of Red Bicyclette Pays d'Oc so-called pinot noir. The coming months will tell if this is going to blow up, blow out or blow over, but one thing is for sure: for the small, independent, quality-driven vineyards labouring in the shadow of the big corporations, this whole affair is not happy news at all |
We hope for better and brighter things next month, unless, that is, you have already been thoroughly persuaded to takemeoff@rives-blanques.com Sunday 28 February 2010 |